Video: Review of Kyoten Sushiko

Austin’s hottest new sushi restaurant is Kyoten Sushiko and it has everything: a quirky, obsessive chef; exceptional food; a server who does his dry cleaning in a bathtub; and all of the charm of an unfurnished model apartment.

Apologies to Bill Hader’s Stefon character from “Saturday Night Live,” but I kept slipping back into that absurd and lovable character’s voice when trying to explain the surreal experience of dining at chef Otto Phan’s omakase-style sushi restaurant.

The slight chef with a shaved head opened his tiny restaurant at the Mueller development at the end of June. Calling it a restaurant almost feels like a stretch. Situated on the ground floor of one of Mueller’s new mixed-use buildings, Kyoten more closely resembles a one-bedroom apartment that someone decided to turn into a restaurant at the last second.

What would be the living area serves as lunch seating (see inset box for details), the kitchen is, well, the kitchen, and the should-be bedroom acts as the dining room for a 20-course omakase-style (chef’s choice) dinner service that takes place two times a night, five nights a week.

With the exception of a small picture of Phan’s original East Sixth Street sushi trailer that served as his launchpad, the white walls are bare. Silence smothers the musicless room. The only architectural detail: a gorgeous, eight-seat ash wood counter designed by Wimberley artist Michael Wilson. I snuck a glance at the floor to see if there was still a drop-cloth to indicate the space was not finished, or some plastic lining that might alert us that we had wandered into a scene from “Dexter.”

Continue reading my review at MyStatesman.com.

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