When your trailer sits in the shadow of the popular El Milagro Tortillas on East Sixth Street, you can be forgiven for not making your own tortillas. What’s easier than just running across the street? And when you make salsas as diverse and compelling as Pueblo Viejo, nobody’s gonna spend too much time bemoaning tortilla quality, even if the corn version crumbled liked baked clay.
The five salsas, which you can purchase in five-ounce cups, run from the smoky dusk of an exceptional black habanero to the morning glow of creamy jalapeno, with a fresh tomato sauce with onions and cilantro streaming through the middle ground.
Breakfast tacos runs $2.50 at this massive trailer hitched to a pick-up truck just east of I-35, and the bacon on the Don Chago is deserving of a breakfast plate real estate. It crackles at ends just shy of burned on a taco creamy with avocado and beans almost liquefied by lard. The spinach on the vegetarian Mi Madre is as bright as an emerald and flexes with iron muscle not sapped by the sauté, with slivers and slices of jalapeno supporting soft mushrooms with their fibrous crunch.
Choose between chicken or steak to supplement your Guaca Taco ($3.90). The beef didn’t have much blush to its interior, but remained tender, with caramelized onions wrapping their sweet embrace amongst the mash of ripe avocado and expressive spinach. I ordered the Guaca in the puffed, spotted flour tortillas, and the sweet pork of an al pastor freshened by cilantro and diced raw onions was just juicy enough to re-hydrate the disappointing corn tortillas.
I’m going back for: Guaca Taco with steak, with a side of orange habanero salsa and black habanero salsa.
910 E. Sixth St.
Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.
1700 E. Sixth St. (at the Grackle)
Hours: 6 p.m. to midnight daily